Short answer
The instinct here is to water more, and that is the one response that makes several of the causes worse. The extension guidance written for this symptom leads with dry air instead, which is why it arrives with the heating season rather than with anything you changed. Check the soil at depth before deciding: damp down there points at the air, at the roots, or at what has built up in the pot, while dry down there points at watering. A white crust on the soil surface or the pot rim is the one visible tell that settles it, because that is fertilizer and tap-water salts with nowhere to drain.
Listed in the order they are worth ruling out. It is normal for more than one of these to be happening at once, so work down the list rather than stopping at the first match.
The extension guidance written specifically for this symptom opens with low humidity as the most likely cause. It becomes the answer in the same weeks a heated house drops well below what most houseplants want, which is why this symptom arrives with the winter rather than with anything you changed.
What to check first
Look at where the plant is standing rather than at the plant. A spot within a few feet of a heat vent, a radiator or a frequently opened winter door is the giveaway, and moving it a few feet is the cheapest thing on this list to try.
Iowa State names allowing plants to dry out too long between waterings as a cause of exactly this, browning leaf edges and tips. Watering on a fixed schedule rather than by what the soil is doing is the habit that produces it, because the plant's need changes with the season and the schedule does not.
What to check first
Push a finger into the mix up to the second knuckle, not just the surface. If it is dry that far down, and especially if the pot feels light when you lift it, this is the one. A pot that has gone properly dry also often pulls away from the sides.
Maryland Extension gives browning or dieback of the leaf tips and margins as the typical symptom of high soluble salts. Nothing rains through a pot the way it does through a bed, so what the fertilizer and the tap water leave behind stays there, and a pot with no drainage hole cannot flush at all.
What to check first
Look at the soil surface and the rim of the pot for white to grey crusty deposits, which is the sign Clemson names. That crust is visible evidence, and it is what separates this from the two causes above it.
Maryland Extension names tip dieback and marginal browning as symptoms of a pot-bound plant, and gives the mechanism as water passing through the pot too quickly to be absorbed adequately. There is so little mix left between the roots that a watering can wets very little of anything.
What to check first
Water it and watch the drainage hole. If water appears underneath within a few seconds of going in, and roots are visible circling at the surface or pushing out of the bottom, slide the plant out and look at the root mass.
This one is a property of the plant rather than of the care, which is why it sits below the others. Iowa State names the sensitive species as spider plant, ti plant, dracaena, prayer plant and calathea, and Clemson separately describes houseplants sensitive to fluoride or chlorine in tap water.
What to check first
Check whether the plant is one of the named sensitive kinds before doing anything about the water. If it is not on that list, the causes above this one are far more likely and this is a distraction.
For a plant outdoors rather than in the house, this is the winter version of the same problem. New Hampshire Extension describes leaves that could not refill their tissues by taking up water from frozen soil, and gives tip burn, scorch and branch dieback as the result. Maryland Extension puts it as being unable to move water from frozen soil to replace what the leaves lost.
What to check first
Look at which side of the plant is affected. Damage concentrated on the side facing the wind, or facing the winter sun, and worst above the snow line, points here rather than at anything about watering.
Still not sure
This is exactly what your county Extension office answers, for free. They are the local horticulture experts for your area, they know what is going around this season where you live, and they will look at a photo.
Find your local Extension officePollinator Patch gives you watering and seasonal care for the plants you already own, written for your region rather than for gardening in general.