Russian Mulberry

Year-round

White mulberry is a fast growing, introduced shade tree that does fine in typical Atlanta soil and needs little upkeep once established, though it self-seeds readily so it is worth watching for volunteers.

• Give it full sun to partial shade and ordinary well drained soil, it tolerates heat, drought once established, and a wide range of soil pH without special amending.
• Plan for a mature spread of roughly 30 to 50 feet in both height and width, so plant it well clear of the house, driveway, and property line.
• Fresh cuts ooze a milky sap, this is a normal trait of the species and not a sign of a problem, but it is worth knowing before you prune so you are not caught off guard.
• This is an introduced species from Asia that Georgia and several other southeastern states track on invasive plant lists, since it self-seeds into disturbed edges and can hybridize with the native red mulberry, so pull volunteer seedlings before they establish rather than letting them spread toward a wooded edge or fence line.

Fall

Fall leaf drop opens the best pruning window before Atlanta's first freeze, plus some cleanup for the front of the yard.

• Once leaves start dropping, this is the best window for structural pruning, cutting during dormancy avoids the heavy fluid weeping that fresh cuts show in spring and summer.
• Rake and clear fallen leaves and any leftover fruit debris off the front walk, driveway, and curb strip, mulberry litter left on hardscape through fall rain gets slick and can stain.
• Atlanta's first fall freeze typically arrives by early to mid November, aim to finish any major shaping cuts before then.

Raking leaves and fruit debris off the front walk and curb strip before winter is a quick, HOA-conscious way to keep the front yard looking tended.

Winter

The tree sits fully dormant through Atlanta's mild winters and needs almost nothing during that time.

• The tree is fully dormant through Atlanta's mild winters and handles the occasional hard freeze without protection, it is hardy well beyond Atlanta's typical zone 7b to 8a range.
• If fall pruning did not happen, late winter before new growth starts is still a reasonably low-sap window for structural cuts.
• Bare winter branches show the tree's full rounded shape, making this the easiest time of year to judge whether the canopy needs thinning or size reduction.
• Skip watering and feeding, the tree needs neither during winter dormancy.

Spring

Spring is planting and leaf-out season for mulberry in Atlanta, with new growth to manage once the last freeze passes.

• Plant or transplant a young tree in early spring after Atlanta's average last freeze, around late March for the metro area, so new roots have time to settle before summer heat arrives.
• New leaves and small greenish flower clusters show up in March and April, with green fruit starting to form about a month behind.
• Watch for root suckers and low sprouts as the tree pushes its usual vigorous spring growth, and cut them off at the base while they are still small.
• Skip fertilizer on an established tree, it grows fast enough on its own in typical Atlanta clay and heavy feeding just adds more of the soft growth it already produces.

Summer

Atlanta's hot, humid summer brings ripening fruit and fast growth, with little else the tree actually needs.

• Ripe fruit drops from roughly late May through June and can stain patios, driveways, sidewalks, and parked cars, and it tends to draw birds, so plan cleanup or keep vehicles clear of the drip line during that stretch.
• Water a newly planted tree during dry spells for its first two summers, an established tree handles Atlanta's heat and humidity fine on its own and rarely needs extra water.
• Cut back any new root suckers or low sprouts again if summer heat and rain pushed out a fresh flush of growth.
• No spray or fungicide routine is needed, mulberry has no serious pest or disease problems in home landscapes in this area.