Cedar Elm
Ulmus crassifolia
Last reviewed: October 2026
Cedar Elm is a medium to large shade tree that flowers inconspicuously from late summer into fall and tolerates both dry upland soils and periodically wet bottomland sites across the southern United States.
Toxicity unknown
Cedar Elm (Ulmus crassifolia) is not listed by the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (opens in new tab) or the other sources we check, so we have no verdict for it either way. Absence from those lists is not a clearance. If your pet shows symptoms after eating any plant, call the ASPCA at (888) 426-4435.
The USDA PLANTS Database (opens in new tab) does not flag Cedar Elm as toxic to livestock.
Light
full sun
Water
low
Size
600"–900" H × 300"–420" W
Bloom
Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov
Native to
AR, FL, LA, MS and 3 more states
Pollinators
butterflies
Before you buy
Your city may pay you to plant this
Cities and water utilities offer rebates for replacing lawn with native and water-wise plants. We track 460 programs across 44 states, each with a link to the provider and the date we last checked it.
Find rebates in your areaPicture natives in your own yard
Upload a photo of your yard and Patch Vision shows a rendering of it planted with natives for your region, like Cedar Elm.
Browse plants for this ecoregion
Cedar Elm is a hardy native Texas shade tree that reaches 50-75 feet tall with a graceful, vase-shaped canopy. It thrives in hot, dry conditions and produces small flowers from summer through fall. This adaptable tree is excellent for providing substantial shade in residential landscapes.
Growing Cedar Elm
Grow Cedar Elm in full sun and low water. Mature plants reach 600 to 900 inches tall and spread 300 to 420 inches wide. Expect low maintenance to keep it looking intentional in a front yard.
How to care for Cedar Elm, by region
How to care for Cedar Elm where it is actually grown: year-round basics plus what to do each season, region by region, with the sources for each.
Care guidance last updated: July 2026
Cross Timbers (includes Fort Worth, TX)
Year-round
Cedar elm is a tough, low-maintenance shade tree native to North Texas, prized for handling the area's heavy clay and alkaline soil and shrugging off summer drought once it is established.
- Give it a full-sun to lightly shaded spot with 30 to 40 feet of room to spread; mature trees reach 50 to 70 feet tall.
- Water deeply once a week through the first two growing seasons to help roots establish, then it needs only moderate supplemental water.
- It flowers later than other elms, with small greenish blooms and papery seed clusters (samaras) from July into fall, a normal but easy-to-miss event.
- Its leaves feed the caterpillars of question mark and mourning cloak butterflies, so a few chewed leaves in summer means the tree is doing that job, not that something is wrong.
- Cedar elm tolerates both the heavy black clay and the sandier soils across North Texas without amendments or regular fertilizer.
A well-formed, single-trunk shade tree with a raised canopy reads as an established, intentional landscape feature rather than an overgrown yard.
Fall
Fall is the recommended planting season for cedar elm and other woody plants in North Texas, and established trees begin dropping their small leaves and seed clusters as temperatures cool.
- Plant new trees from October through early December; cooler air and still-warm soil let roots establish before next summer's heat arrives.
- Water new fall plantings weekly through the first winter unless there has been significant rain.
- Leaf drop is often gradual and light for cedar elm compared to larger shade trees, sometimes lasting into December in a mild year.
- Rake fallen leaves and seed clusters off turf areas periodically to keep the lawn looking tended.
- This is the safest window for any structural pruning, once the tree has dropped its leaves and gone dormant.
Because cedar elm's leaf drop is light and spread out rather than a single heavy shed, raking stays a quick, occasional task instead of a weekend project.
Winter
Cedar elm goes dormant in winter and needs almost no attention beyond protecting any tree planted in the last year or two from a hard freeze.
- North Texas winters are generally mild (USDA zone 8a to 8b), but an Arctic outbreak can bring a hard freeze; wrap the trunk of a first- or second-year tree if one is forecast.
- This is the best window for structural pruning, removing dead wood, or shaping, while the tree is fully dormant and bare.
- Skip fertilizer in winter; wait until active growth resumes in spring.
- Water only if the season turns unusually dry; a dormant tree needs far less than one in active growth.
- Check mulch depth around the base and refresh it to about 2 to 3 inches before spring growth starts.
A pruned, dormant tree with fresh mulch reads as a maintained landscape feature through the bare winter months rather than a neglected one.
Spring
Spring is the tree's active growth period and a good time to plant a young cedar elm so it has a full growing season to establish roots before the first hard summer.
- Plant container or balled-and-burlapped trees in March or April, after North Texas's last frost in mid March.
- In the heavy black clay common through the Blackland Prairies, set the root ball an inch or two above grade or on a slight mound so it does not sit in standing water; in the sandier soils west toward the Cross Timbers, plant at grade and expect to water more often through the first summer.
- Water a newly planted tree twice a week for the first six to eight weeks after planting.
- Stake a young tree only if the site is windy, and remove the stakes within a year so the trunk builds its own strength.
- Hold off on fertilizer; cedar elm grows well in average native soil without it.
A freshly planted tree with a clean mulch ring and, if needed, a neat stake reads as a cared-for planting rather than a bare patch of yard.
Summer
July and August are the hardest months for a young cedar elm; established trees handle the heat well, but anything planted in the last year or two needs help getting through it.
- Deep-water once a week during stretches with no rain, soaking the root zone rather than lightly sprinkling the surface.
- Keep a 2 to 3 inch ring of mulch around the base, pulled back from the trunk, to hold soil moisture through 100F afternoons.
- Trees that have been in the ground three or more years can usually get through most of a North Texas summer on rainfall alone.
- Small greenish flowers and papery seed clusters appear starting in July, a normal part of the tree's cycle and not a sign of stress.
- Avoid heavy pruning in summer heat; save structural cuts for the dormant season.
Keeping the mulch ring edged and weed-free through summer keeps the base of the tree looking tended even while everything else slows down.
Sources: Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, Ulmus crassifolia, USDA PLANTS Database, Ulmus crassifolia profile, Texas A&M Forest Service, Texas Tested Texas Tough: Cedar Elm
Texas Blackland Prairies (includes Dallas, TX)
Year-round
Cedar elm is a tough, low-maintenance shade tree native to North Texas, prized for handling the area's heavy clay and alkaline soil and shrugging off summer drought once it is established.
- Give it a full-sun to lightly shaded spot with 30 to 40 feet of room to spread; mature trees reach 50 to 70 feet tall.
- Water deeply once a week through the first two growing seasons to help roots establish, then it needs only moderate supplemental water.
- It flowers later than other elms, with small greenish blooms and papery seed clusters (samaras) from July into fall, a normal but easy-to-miss event.
- Its leaves feed the caterpillars of question mark and mourning cloak butterflies, so a few chewed leaves in summer means the tree is doing that job, not that something is wrong.
- Cedar elm tolerates both the heavy black clay and the sandier soils across North Texas without amendments or regular fertilizer.
A well-formed, single-trunk shade tree with a raised canopy reads as an established, intentional landscape feature rather than an overgrown yard.
Fall
Fall is the recommended planting season for cedar elm and other woody plants in North Texas, and established trees begin dropping their small leaves and seed clusters as temperatures cool.
- Plant new trees from October through early December; cooler air and still-warm soil let roots establish before next summer's heat arrives.
- Water new fall plantings weekly through the first winter unless there has been significant rain.
- Leaf drop is often gradual and light for cedar elm compared to larger shade trees, sometimes lasting into December in a mild year.
- Rake fallen leaves and seed clusters off turf areas periodically to keep the lawn looking tended.
- This is the safest window for any structural pruning, once the tree has dropped its leaves and gone dormant.
Because cedar elm's leaf drop is light and spread out rather than a single heavy shed, raking stays a quick, occasional task instead of a weekend project.
Winter
Cedar elm goes dormant in winter and needs almost no attention beyond protecting any tree planted in the last year or two from a hard freeze.
- North Texas winters are generally mild (USDA zone 8a to 8b), but an Arctic outbreak can bring a hard freeze; wrap the trunk of a first- or second-year tree if one is forecast.
- This is the best window for structural pruning, removing dead wood, or shaping, while the tree is fully dormant and bare.
- Skip fertilizer in winter; wait until active growth resumes in spring.
- Water only if the season turns unusually dry; a dormant tree needs far less than one in active growth.
- Check mulch depth around the base and refresh it to about 2 to 3 inches before spring growth starts.
A pruned, dormant tree with fresh mulch reads as a maintained landscape feature through the bare winter months rather than a neglected one.
Spring
Spring is the tree's active growth period and a good time to plant a young cedar elm so it has a full growing season to establish roots before the first hard summer.
- Plant container or balled-and-burlapped trees in March or April, after North Texas's last frost in mid March.
- In the heavy black clay common through the Blackland Prairies, set the root ball an inch or two above grade or on a slight mound so it does not sit in standing water; in the sandier soils west toward the Cross Timbers, plant at grade and expect to water more often through the first summer.
- Water a newly planted tree twice a week for the first six to eight weeks after planting.
- Stake a young tree only if the site is windy, and remove the stakes within a year so the trunk builds its own strength.
- Hold off on fertilizer; cedar elm grows well in average native soil without it.
A freshly planted tree with a clean mulch ring and, if needed, a neat stake reads as a cared-for planting rather than a bare patch of yard.
Summer
July and August are the hardest months for a young cedar elm; established trees handle the heat well, but anything planted in the last year or two needs help getting through it.
- Deep-water once a week during stretches with no rain, soaking the root zone rather than lightly sprinkling the surface.
- Keep a 2 to 3 inch ring of mulch around the base, pulled back from the trunk, to hold soil moisture through 100F afternoons.
- Trees that have been in the ground three or more years can usually get through most of a North Texas summer on rainfall alone.
- Small greenish flowers and papery seed clusters appear starting in July, a normal part of the tree's cycle and not a sign of stress.
- Avoid heavy pruning in summer heat; save structural cuts for the dormant season.
Keeping the mulch ring edged and weed-free through summer keeps the base of the tree looking tended even while everything else slows down.
Sources: Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, Ulmus crassifolia, USDA PLANTS Database, Ulmus crassifolia profile, Texas A&M Forest Service, Texas Tested Texas Tough: Cedar Elm
In an HOA neighborhood
Cedar Elm takes more care to keep looking intentional in a front yard. Maintenance level: low. Consider it for backyard or mid-zone beds rather than the street edge.
Works well in: backyard only.
- Tree size exceeds typical HOA-friendly range
- Best suited for backyard or with special approval
Wildlife value
The extended blooming period from June through November provides nectar for butterflies and other pollinators when few other trees are flowering. Birds appreciate the small seeds and nesting sites in the mature canopy.
Common questions
- When does Cedar Elm bloom?
- Cedar Elm produces small, inconspicuous flowers from June through November, with the heaviest bloom typically in late summer and fall, later than most other elm species.
- What pollinators visit Cedar Elm?
- Butterflies are drawn to Cedar Elm, along with other small flying insects that feed on its tiny, wind- and insect-pollinated flowers.
- What light and water conditions does Cedar Elm need?
- Cedar Elm grows best in full sun to part shade and handles low water availability well once established, though it also tolerates periods of moist soil.
- Is Cedar Elm drought tolerant?
- Yes, Cedar Elm is considered a low-water tree once its root system is established, making it a common choice for hot, dry sites with clay or rocky soils.
- What kind of habitat suits Cedar Elm?
- Cedar Elm is often found along stream banks, in bottomlands that flood occasionally, and on dry limestone hills, reflecting its tolerance for a wide range of soil moisture.
- Is Cedar Elm toxic to livestock?
- The USDA PLANTS Database does not flag Cedar Elm as toxic to livestock.
- Is Cedar Elm HOA-friendly?
- Cedar Elm takes more care to look intentional in a front yard. Consider it for backyard or mid-zone beds rather than the street edge.
These answers were drafted with an AI model from this plant's data. Verify care details with a local expert.
Native range data from vouchered herbarium specimen records and regional native plant society lists. Pollinator and host plant associations compiled from GBIF, iNaturalist, and published ecological literature.
If something looks wrong
Common plant problems, and what to check first
These come up on almost any plant. Each guide lists the likely causes in the order they are worth ruling out, with one thing to check before you act on any of them, and links to the source it came from.
- It is dying right after planting
- Leaves turning yellow
- Wilting even though I watered it
- Brown crispy leaf tips
- Bugs on the plant
Ready to grow Cedar Elm? Add it to your garden in Pollinator Patch to track it and get season-by-season care guidance.