Starry Rosinweed
Silphium asteriscus
Last reviewed: August 2026
Silphium asteriscus, or starry rosinweed, is a coarse forb that produces yellow daisy-like flowers from June through September. It grows best in full sun on dry to medium, well-drained soils along woodland edges and open fields.

Toxicity unknown
Starry Rosinweed (Silphium asteriscus) is not listed by the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (opens in new tab) or the other sources we check, so we have no verdict for it either way. Absence from those lists is not a clearance. If your pet shows symptoms after eating any plant, call the ASPCA at (888) 426-4435.
Light
full sun
Water
low
Size
24"–60" H × 12"–24" W
Bloom
Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Native to
AL, AR, FL, GA and 17 more states
Pollinators
bees, butterflies, beetles
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Starry rosinweed is a tall native perennial that produces bright yellow, daisy-like flowers from summer through early fall. This drought-tolerant plant forms upright clumps and can reach up to 5 feet tall, making it an excellent choice for the back of flower borders. The cheerful blooms provide months of color while requiring minimal water once established.
Growing Starry Rosinweed
Grow Starry Rosinweed in full sun and low water. Mature plants reach 24 to 60 inches tall and spread 12 to 24 inches wide. Expect low maintenance to keep it looking intentional in a front yard.
How to care for Starry Rosinweed, by region
How to care for Starry Rosinweed where it is actually grown: year-round basics plus what to do each season, region by region, with the sources for each.
Care guidance last updated: July 2026
Cross Timbers (includes Fort Worth, TX)
Year-round
Starry rosinweed is a tall, coarse sunflower relative with big yellow daisy flowers and sticky, resinous stems (that resin is where the rosinweed name comes from). It is not on the ASPCA toxic plant list and it is a strong draw for native bees and butterflies.
- Give it full sun, at least 6 hours of direct light a day, for the sturdiest stems and heaviest bloom.
- It sends down a deep taproot, so pick its spot once. It resents being dug up and moved after the first year.
- In heavy black clay, plant it high on a slight mound or work in compost for drainage. In the sandier soils west of the metro it drains fast, so young plants need more frequent water through the first summer.
- Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart. Once established it needs very little supplemental water.
- Expect a rangy, upright plant 2 to 5 feet tall. It is not naturally tidy or compact, so give it room away from tight foundation beds.
Reads as an intentional wildflower planting, not a weed, when it is placed in a defined bed with a clean edge rather than left to sprawl loose at the front of the yard.
Fall
Bloom tapers off through September as the plant shifts into seed production, then the whole plant browns down as North Texas cools toward the first frost in mid November.
- Leave the last flowerheads standing into fall if you want them to dry and go to seed on the plant.
- Goldfinches and other seed-eating birds will work the dried heads, so hold off deadheading everything in early fall if you want to see that.
- Foliage yellows and the stems turn brown and woody as growth slows; this is normal, not a sign of a problem.
- Autumn is the better planting window for woody companions nearby (trees, shrubs), though this forb itself is best started in spring.
Browning foliage and dried seed heads can read as neglect from the street. A trimmed edge around the bed keeps the look intentional while the seed heads finish their job.
Winter
The plant dies back to the ground after the first hard freeze and stays dormant through the mild North Texas winter, with occasional short hard freezes and the rare severe Arctic outbreak.
- After stems have gone fully brown following a hard freeze, cut the whole plant back to 4 to 6 inches above the ground.
- You can also leave the dead stems standing through winter for birds and overwintering insects, then cut back in late February before new growth starts.
- No winter watering is needed. The dormant root system does not need supplemental moisture.
- A 2 to 3 inch mulch layer over the crown helps buffer the rare severe Arctic outbreak, though this species is hardy through the region's normal winter lows.
Cutting the dead stalks back to a low, even 4 to 6 inch clump right after the first hard freeze is the single fastest way to keep a winter-dormant bed looking tended rather than abandoned.
Spring
Spring is new growth and the best time to get a starry rosinweed into the ground in North Texas.
- Plant after the last frost (mid March) so young roots have time to establish before summer heat arrives.
- New basal leaves emerge in March and April. Clear last year's dead stems away from the crown if you did not cut them back over winter.
- Water new plantings twice a week for the first 4 to 6 weeks, then taper off as roots settle in.
- Watch for slug or snail damage on tender new leaves in wet spring weeks, especially in shadier corners of the bed.
Summer
This is bloom season. Large yellow daisy flowerheads, up to 2.5 inches across, open from June into September and keep going through the hottest stretch of the year.
- Once established, this plant needs little to no supplemental water even through 100F afternoons in July and August.
- First-year plants still benefit from a deep soak every 1 to 2 weeks during the hottest weeks if there has been no rain.
- Deadhead spent flowerheads if you want a tidier look and a longer bloom window; skip it if you want seed for goldfinches later in the year.
- Watch for bees and butterflies working the flowers all day. This is one of the plant's main jobs in the yard.
Full, showy yellow bloom through the hardest part of summer reads as a deliberate pollinator planting, especially if paired with a mowed edge or border.
Sources: Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center - Silphium asteriscus, ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants, letter S, Little Red Wagon Native Nursery - Starry Rosinweed
Texas Blackland Prairies (includes Dallas, TX)
Year-round
Starry rosinweed is a tall, coarse sunflower relative with big yellow daisy flowers and sticky, resinous stems (that resin is where the rosinweed name comes from). It is not on the ASPCA toxic plant list and it is a strong draw for native bees and butterflies.
- Give it full sun, at least 6 hours of direct light a day, for the sturdiest stems and heaviest bloom.
- It sends down a deep taproot, so pick its spot once. It resents being dug up and moved after the first year.
- In heavy black clay, plant it high on a slight mound or work in compost for drainage. In the sandier soils west of the metro it drains fast, so young plants need more frequent water through the first summer.
- Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart. Once established it needs very little supplemental water.
- Expect a rangy, upright plant 2 to 5 feet tall. It is not naturally tidy or compact, so give it room away from tight foundation beds.
Reads as an intentional wildflower planting, not a weed, when it is placed in a defined bed with a clean edge rather than left to sprawl loose at the front of the yard.
Fall
Bloom tapers off through September as the plant shifts into seed production, then the whole plant browns down as North Texas cools toward the first frost in mid November.
- Leave the last flowerheads standing into fall if you want them to dry and go to seed on the plant.
- Goldfinches and other seed-eating birds will work the dried heads, so hold off deadheading everything in early fall if you want to see that.
- Foliage yellows and the stems turn brown and woody as growth slows; this is normal, not a sign of a problem.
- Autumn is the better planting window for woody companions nearby (trees, shrubs), though this forb itself is best started in spring.
Browning foliage and dried seed heads can read as neglect from the street. A trimmed edge around the bed keeps the look intentional while the seed heads finish their job.
Winter
The plant dies back to the ground after the first hard freeze and stays dormant through the mild North Texas winter, with occasional short hard freezes and the rare severe Arctic outbreak.
- After stems have gone fully brown following a hard freeze, cut the whole plant back to 4 to 6 inches above the ground.
- You can also leave the dead stems standing through winter for birds and overwintering insects, then cut back in late February before new growth starts.
- No winter watering is needed. The dormant root system does not need supplemental moisture.
- A 2 to 3 inch mulch layer over the crown helps buffer the rare severe Arctic outbreak, though this species is hardy through the region's normal winter lows.
Cutting the dead stalks back to a low, even 4 to 6 inch clump right after the first hard freeze is the single fastest way to keep a winter-dormant bed looking tended rather than abandoned.
Spring
Spring is new growth and the best time to get a starry rosinweed into the ground in North Texas.
- Plant after the last frost (mid March) so young roots have time to establish before summer heat arrives.
- New basal leaves emerge in March and April. Clear last year's dead stems away from the crown if you did not cut them back over winter.
- Water new plantings twice a week for the first 4 to 6 weeks, then taper off as roots settle in.
- Watch for slug or snail damage on tender new leaves in wet spring weeks, especially in shadier corners of the bed.
Summer
This is bloom season. Large yellow daisy flowerheads, up to 2.5 inches across, open from June into September and keep going through the hottest stretch of the year.
- Once established, this plant needs little to no supplemental water even through 100F afternoons in July and August.
- First-year plants still benefit from a deep soak every 1 to 2 weeks during the hottest weeks if there has been no rain.
- Deadhead spent flowerheads if you want a tidier look and a longer bloom window; skip it if you want seed for goldfinches later in the year.
- Watch for bees and butterflies working the flowers all day. This is one of the plant's main jobs in the yard.
Full, showy yellow bloom through the hardest part of summer reads as a deliberate pollinator planting, especially if paired with a mowed edge or border.
Sources: Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center - Silphium asteriscus, ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants, letter S, Little Red Wagon Native Nursery - Starry Rosinweed
Want these tasks as reminders timed to your yard? Pollinator Patch turns this guidance into a season-by-season care plan for the plants you actually grow.
In an HOA neighborhood
Starry Rosinweed takes more care to keep looking intentional in a front yard. Maintenance level: low. Consider it for backyard or mid-zone beds rather than the street edge.
Works well in: backyard only.
- Very tall height (up to 5 feet) may violate front yard restrictions
- Can appear weedy or wild to conventional landscaping standards
- Dies back completely in winter leaving bare stems
Wildlife value
This plant is a pollinator magnet, attracting bees, butterflies, and beetles with its abundant nectar-rich flowers. The long bloom period from June through September provides consistent food sources during critical late-season months.
Common questions
- When does starry rosinweed bloom?
- Starry rosinweed typically flowers from June through September, with yellow, daisy-like flower heads held on tall, coarse stems.
- What pollinators visit Silphium asteriscus?
- Bees, butterflies, and beetles are the main visitors to starry rosinweed flowers, drawn to the open yellow blooms for nectar and pollen.
- How much water does starry rosinweed need?
- Once established, starry rosinweed tolerates low water and dry soils well, though it can also handle moderately moist sites.
- What growing conditions does this plant prefer?
- Starry rosinweed grows best in full sun with well-drained soil, and it can tolerate some part-day shade at the edges of woodlands.
- Does starry rosinweed stay green year round?
- No, it is a deciduous herbaceous forb that dies back to the ground each year and regrows from its root crown in spring.
- Is Starry Rosinweed HOA-friendly?
- Starry Rosinweed takes more care to look intentional in a front yard. Consider it for backyard or mid-zone beds rather than the street edge.
These answers were drafted with an AI model from this plant's data. Verify care details with a local expert.
Native range data from the World Checklist of Vascular Plants (Kew). Pollinator and host plant associations compiled from GBIF, iNaturalist, and published ecological literature.
If something looks wrong
Common plant problems, and what to check first
These come up on almost any plant. Each guide lists the likely causes in the order they are worth ruling out, with one thing to check before you act on any of them, and links to the source it came from.
- It is dying right after planting
- Leaves turning yellow
- Wilting even though I watered it
- Brown crispy leaf tips
- Bugs on the plant
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