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Possom-haw Holly

Ilex decidua

Last reviewed: August 2026

Possumhaw holly is a deciduous shrub that blooms in May and June with small greenish white flowers, followed by bright red berries that cling to bare branches through winter. It thrives in part sun with medium moisture, often along bottomlands and stream edges.

Possom-haw Holly (Ilex decidua)
Photo: Wikimedia Commons (Public domain)

Toxicity unknown

Possom-haw Holly (Ilex decidua) is not listed by the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (opens in new tab) or the other sources we check, so we have no verdict for it either way. Absence from those lists is not a clearance. If your pet shows symptoms after eating any plant, call the ASPCA at (888) 426-4435.

Possom-haw Holly is listed as toxic to grazing livestock (cattle, sheep, and goats) at a slight level by the USDA PLANTS Database (opens in new tab). This is a livestock indicator and is separate from pet toxicity.

Light

part sun

Water

medium

Size

120"–300" H × 120"–240" W

Bloom

May, Jun

Native to

AL, AR, FL, GA and 14 more states

Pollinators

bees, beetles

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Possum-haw holly is a large deciduous shrub that can reach 10-25 feet tall and wide. It produces small white flowers in late spring followed by bright red berries that persist through winter on female plants. This native holly loses its leaves in fall, making it unique among hollies.

Growing Possom-haw Holly

Grow Possom-haw Holly in part sun and medium water. Mature plants reach 120 to 300 inches tall and spread 120 to 240 inches wide. Expect moderate maintenance to keep it looking intentional in a front yard.

How to care for Possom-haw Holly, by region

How to care for Possom-haw Holly where it is actually grown: year-round basics plus what to do each season, region by region, with the sources for each.

Care guidance last updated: July 2026

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Cross Timbers (includes Fort Worth, TX)

Year-round

Possumhaw holly is a native deciduous shrub or small tree that drops its leaves in fall and then shows off bright orange red berries on bare branches all winter, but only female plants produce berries and they need a male plant nearby to set fruit.

  • Confirm you have a female plant (the one that fruits) if you want the winter berry show; an unlabeled young plant may not flower and reveal its sex for a few years
  • Plant in part sun to full sun; it tolerates some shade but flowers and fruits best with more light
  • In the heavy black clay common through the eastern part of North Texas, plant high on a slight mound or amend the hole for drainage; in the sandier soils to the west it drains faster but will need water more often through the first summer
  • Give it room to reach 10 to 25 feet tall and nearly as wide at maturity; it can be limbed up into a small tree or kept as a multi stem shrub
  • Berries are mildly toxic if eaten in quantity by dogs, cats, or horses, and can cause stomach upset in people too; keep an eye on kids and pets during berry season and discourage eating them

Left unmanaged it can sucker and form a thicket at the base, which can read as unruly in a front yard bed; prune out root suckers a couple times a year to keep a clean single or multi trunk form.

Fall

Leaves turn yellow and drop in fall, and on female plants this reveals clusters of bright orange red berries that stay on the bare branches through winter.

  • Fall (October through November) is a good second planting window for a woody shrub like this in North Texas, since roots establish over a mild winter before next summer's heat
  • Rake up fallen leaves from the base if you want a tidy bed; the plant does not need the leaf litter to thrive
  • Hold off on pruning now; wait for late winter dormancy so you do not cut off the flower buds that will make next year's berries
  • Ease back on watering as temperatures cool, but do not let the soil go bone dry if fall rain is light

Bare branches loaded with orange red berries are a deliberate, ornamental winter feature, not a sign the plant is struggling; worth mentioning if a neighbor asks why it dropped its leaves.

Winter

This is possumhaw holly's showcase season: bare gray branches covered in bright berries that persist into late winter and feed birds like robins and cedar waxwings.

  • Prune for shape or to remove root suckers in late winter (January to February) while the plant is dormant and before spring growth starts
  • Leave berry covered branches uncut through the season for the display and for birds; cutting a few stems for an indoor arrangement will not harm the plant
  • Keep an eye on soil moisture during any hard freeze or Arctic outbreak; well mulched, established plants handle North Texas's short hard freezes without extra protection
  • For a young plant in its first winter, an extra layer of mulch over the root zone offers some protection if a severe Arctic outbreak is forecast

The berry display against bare winter beds reads as a curated, intentional focal point, especially once the plant is pruned to a clean single or multi trunk form.

Spring

Spring is the best window to plant possumhaw holly in North Texas, and small greenish white flowers open on the bare or newly leafing branches before summer heat arrives.

  • Plant after the last frost (mid March) so roots have time to establish before the July and August heat
  • Water new plantings two to three times a week for the first several weeks until you see fresh new growth
  • Skip fertilizer at planting; once the plant shows active growth, a balanced slow release fertilizer is optional
  • Mulch 2 to 3 inches deep around the base, kept a few inches back from the trunk, to hold moisture and cool new roots
  • If you want berries, a male plant should be within a couple hundred feet since flowers are pollinated by bees and other insects, not the wind

A newly planted shrub can look sparse and bare through spring; a neat 2 to 3 inch mulch ring gives the bed a tended, intentional look while it fills in.

Summer

July and August are hard on new possumhaw holly plantings in North Texas; established plants handle the heat well, but anything planted in the last year needs regular water to survive the stretch.

  • Water first year plantings deeply once or twice a week during 100 degree stretches, more often if leaves start to droop
  • Established plants (second year and beyond) usually only need extra water during dry spells of three or more weeks
  • Keep the mulch ring topped up to 2 to 3 inches; it slows moisture loss during the hottest weeks
  • Hold off on pruning in summer; cutting into the plant during heat stress can slow recovery
  • Watch for browning leaf edges on plants in full, hot afternoon sun with dry soil; if it recurs, future plantings are better sited in part sun

Sources: ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants: American Holly (Ilex), Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center: Ilex decidua, Aggie Horticulture: Native Shrubs, Possumhaw Holly, USDA PLANTS Database: Ilex decidua profile

Texas Blackland Prairies (includes Dallas, TX)

Year-round

Possumhaw holly is a native deciduous shrub or small tree that drops its leaves in fall and then shows off bright orange red berries on bare branches all winter, but only female plants produce berries and they need a male plant nearby to set fruit.

  • Confirm you have a female plant (the one that fruits) if you want the winter berry show; an unlabeled young plant may not flower and reveal its sex for a few years
  • Plant in part sun to full sun; it tolerates some shade but flowers and fruits best with more light
  • In the heavy black clay common through the eastern part of North Texas, plant high on a slight mound or amend the hole for drainage; in the sandier soils to the west it drains faster but will need water more often through the first summer
  • Give it room to reach 10 to 25 feet tall and nearly as wide at maturity; it can be limbed up into a small tree or kept as a multi stem shrub
  • Berries are mildly toxic if eaten in quantity by dogs, cats, or horses, and can cause stomach upset in people too; keep an eye on kids and pets during berry season and discourage eating them

Left unmanaged it can sucker and form a thicket at the base, which can read as unruly in a front yard bed; prune out root suckers a couple times a year to keep a clean single or multi trunk form.

Fall

Leaves turn yellow and drop in fall, and on female plants this reveals clusters of bright orange red berries that stay on the bare branches through winter.

  • Fall (October through November) is a good second planting window for a woody shrub like this in North Texas, since roots establish over a mild winter before next summer's heat
  • Rake up fallen leaves from the base if you want a tidy bed; the plant does not need the leaf litter to thrive
  • Hold off on pruning now; wait for late winter dormancy so you do not cut off the flower buds that will make next year's berries
  • Ease back on watering as temperatures cool, but do not let the soil go bone dry if fall rain is light

Bare branches loaded with orange red berries are a deliberate, ornamental winter feature, not a sign the plant is struggling; worth mentioning if a neighbor asks why it dropped its leaves.

Winter

This is possumhaw holly's showcase season: bare gray branches covered in bright berries that persist into late winter and feed birds like robins and cedar waxwings.

  • Prune for shape or to remove root suckers in late winter (January to February) while the plant is dormant and before spring growth starts
  • Leave berry covered branches uncut through the season for the display and for birds; cutting a few stems for an indoor arrangement will not harm the plant
  • Keep an eye on soil moisture during any hard freeze or Arctic outbreak; well mulched, established plants handle North Texas's short hard freezes without extra protection
  • For a young plant in its first winter, an extra layer of mulch over the root zone offers some protection if a severe Arctic outbreak is forecast

The berry display against bare winter beds reads as a curated, intentional focal point, especially once the plant is pruned to a clean single or multi trunk form.

Spring

Spring is the best window to plant possumhaw holly in North Texas, and small greenish white flowers open on the bare or newly leafing branches before summer heat arrives.

  • Plant after the last frost (mid March) so roots have time to establish before the July and August heat
  • Water new plantings two to three times a week for the first several weeks until you see fresh new growth
  • Skip fertilizer at planting; once the plant shows active growth, a balanced slow release fertilizer is optional
  • Mulch 2 to 3 inches deep around the base, kept a few inches back from the trunk, to hold moisture and cool new roots
  • If you want berries, a male plant should be within a couple hundred feet since flowers are pollinated by bees and other insects, not the wind

A newly planted shrub can look sparse and bare through spring; a neat 2 to 3 inch mulch ring gives the bed a tended, intentional look while it fills in.

Summer

July and August are hard on new possumhaw holly plantings in North Texas; established plants handle the heat well, but anything planted in the last year needs regular water to survive the stretch.

  • Water first year plantings deeply once or twice a week during 100 degree stretches, more often if leaves start to droop
  • Established plants (second year and beyond) usually only need extra water during dry spells of three or more weeks
  • Keep the mulch ring topped up to 2 to 3 inches; it slows moisture loss during the hottest weeks
  • Hold off on pruning in summer; cutting into the plant during heat stress can slow recovery
  • Watch for browning leaf edges on plants in full, hot afternoon sun with dry soil; if it recurs, future plantings are better sited in part sun

Sources: ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants: American Holly (Ilex), Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center: Ilex decidua, Aggie Horticulture: Native Shrubs, Possumhaw Holly, USDA PLANTS Database: Ilex decidua profile

Want these tasks as reminders timed to your yard? Pollinator Patch turns this guidance into a season-by-season care plan for the plants you actually grow.

In an HOA neighborhood

Possom-haw Holly takes more care to keep looking intentional in a front yard. Maintenance level: moderate. Consider it for backyard or mid-zone beds rather than the street edge.

Works well in: backyard only.

  • Extremely large size inappropriate for most residential settings
  • Can look sparse and ungainly when leafless in winter

Wildlife value

The flowers attract bees and beetles in late spring. The bright red berries provide important winter food for birds and add seasonal interest to the landscape.

Common questions

When does possumhaw holly bloom?
Possumhaw holly blooms in May and June, producing small greenish white flowers along its stems before the berries develop.
What pollinates possumhaw holly flowers?
Bees and beetles are the main visitors to possumhaw holly flowers, drawn to the small blooms in late spring.
Does possumhaw holly keep its leaves in winter?
No. Despite being a holly, this species is deciduous and drops its leaves in fall, which is why its name includes decidua. The bare branches show off the red berries through winter.
How much sun does possumhaw holly need?
It grows best in part sun but tolerates a range from full sun to part shade, especially when soil moisture is adequate.
What growing conditions suit possumhaw holly best?
It does well in medium moisture soils and is often found near stream banks, low woodlands, and bottomland areas where water is more consistent.
Is Possom-haw Holly toxic to livestock?
Possom-haw Holly is listed as toxic to grazing livestock such as cattle, sheep, and goats (slight severity) by the USDA PLANTS Database. This is separate from pet (dog and cat) toxicity.
Is Possom-haw Holly HOA-friendly?
Possom-haw Holly takes more care to look intentional in a front yard. Consider it for backyard or mid-zone beds rather than the street edge.

These answers were drafted with an AI model from this plant's data. Verify care details with a local expert.

Native range data from vouchered herbarium specimen records and regional native plant society lists. Pollinator and host plant associations compiled from GBIF, iNaturalist, and published ecological literature.

If something looks wrong

Common plant problems, and what to check first

These come up on almost any plant. Each guide lists the likely causes in the order they are worth ruling out, with one thing to check before you act on any of them, and links to the source it came from.

See all plant problem guides

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